CAFE CHINA: THIS AUTHENTIC CHINESE RESTAURANT IS BACK AND NEW YORKERS ARE REJOICING
The Cost -$40 per person
The Atmosphere – When you walk into Cafe China, you’ll notice the combination of retro and modern décor with some Chinese accents that all come together nicely. The tables are placed quite close together which makes having a romantic dinner difficult but the restaurant makes for a great venue for friends or family or a non-romantic meal. Reservations are highly recommended and while casual attire is okay, looking like you put some effort into your outfit would allow you to fit in better amongst the crowd.
It was a bit of a surprise when Cafe China closed its doors a few years back. The restaurant had received a Michelin star eight years in a row and was a popular spot serving authentically prepared traditional Chinese dishes. Luckily, the restaurant was only closed for a short time and in 2021 it reopened in a new space in Midtown Manhattan with new menu items from different regions of China and a cocktail list featuring some of its own unique creations.
The Order – 2046, Pork Dumplings in Chili Oil, Tea Smoked Duck, and Spicy Cumin Lamb.
The Fantastic – Out of the three food dishes ordered, two of them received our Fantastic rating which is a pretty incredible feat. Right off the bat, Cafe China scored a winner with the meal’s only appetizer, the Pork Dumplings in Chili Oil. One of the restaurant’s signature dishes, the eight dumplings come nearly submerged in an excellent oyster and chili oil sauce that is unsurprisingly spicy but surprisingly a touch sweet. The balance between the two is wonderful and the relatively flat dumplings are also delicious, making this one of the best $10 appetizers you’ll sink your teeth into in New York City.
The other dish that earned this hard-to-come-by rating is the Spicy Cumin Lamb. The sinus-clearing entrée is quite spicy but the bold flavors from the peppers and the copious amount of cumin make it special. Sauteed onions and green and red peppers are mixed in with the tender pieces of lamb which are exceptional. This dish is a must-order for those who can handle the heat but we definitely recommend having a glass of water nearby before you dig in.
The Great – It is hard to imagine that the Tea Smoked Duck was the “worst” food item of the meal since it too was very tasty. Served with two wheat bao, the duck has an incredible, delicate tea flavor to it that is to die for. The slices of boneless meat go well with the bao, which were good, but the entrée sized portion of duck could have used at least a third bun. The duck is nicely done and it was great to take advantage of ordering a tea smoked meat since the popular Chinese dishes are not easily found outside of China. While it may not be a must-order, the tea smoked duck is one that a duck lover will almost certainly enjoy.
The Good – The 2046 cocktail, a blend of Grey Goose Pear vodka, rosemary and juniper infused syrup, and fresh lime juice, was enjoyable but did not live up to the level of the food at Cafe China. The pear flavored vodka made up the majority of the drink, resulting in the drink tasting far from the handcrafted, unique cocktail I was expecting. The rosemary and juniper infused syrup was good, I just wish it played a more prominent role in the foreground of the drink. At the end of the day the 2046 was solid and would pair well with many of the appetizers on the menu but next time I’d try a different cocktail.
The Verdict – While I never had the pleasure of dining at the first Cafe China location, I am certainly glad the restaurant is back. The wonderfully prepared authentic Chinese dishes are not ones that are easy to find at New York City’s other Chinese eateries and even if you do happen to find them, they are not likely to be executed as well. If you are in New York and up for elevated, authentic Chinese food in a nice setting, Cafe China should be at or near the top of the list of places to dine.